What to pack for Iceland in winter: the real list (and what to leave home)

The suitcase that actually works between October and April, written by people who see every week what travellers bring and what they end up buying in a panic in Reykjavík.

Iceland is not as cold as you think. Reykjavík in January hovers around 0 °C — milder than Chicago, milder than Moscow, milder than a cold snap in Madrid. What Iceland has is wind, horizontal water and a new weather system every two hours. That is the enemy, not the thermometer.

The entire rule of Icelandic clothing fits in one sentence: three layers, and the outer one genuinely waterproof.

The three layers

Layer 1 — against the skin

Thermal base layers in merino wool or synthetic. Long-sleeve top and thermal leggings.

No cotton. Not a cotton t-shirt, not cotton socks. Cotton soaks up sweat and holds it, and then it freezes you from the inside. Icelanders have a saying about this and it is not a guide's joke.

Layer 2 — the insulation

A thick fleece or a light down jacket. If you are torn between them: light down, because it compresses into a daypack and you can strip it off inside the van.

Layer 3 — the one that matters

A waterproof, windproof jacket with a hood. Look for a Gore-Tex-style membrane with taped seams. "Water resistant" does not count: at Seljalandsfoss you walk behind a waterfall and two minutes later you are soaked.

And waterproof over-trousers on top of your normal trousers. It is the item most people forget and the one they thank us for most. It costs €30–50 and changes the trip.

Feet

• Waterproof mid-cut boots with a lugged sole. The most important thing in the bag after the jacket.
• Wool socks, two pairs so one can be wet. Never cotton.
• Microspikes that slip over the boot. They are cheap, and between November and March car parks and trails are sheet ice. Every Icelandic petrol station sells them if you arrive without.

Head and hands

• A hat that covers your ears. That is where the wind gets in.
• A neck gaiter or buff. More useful than a scarf because it doesn't blow away.
• Two pairs of gloves: thin liners for your phone and camera, thick waterproof ones over them. With a single pair you end up stripping them off for every photo and freezing your hands.

What people always forget

1. Swimsuit and towel. Iceland is a country of outdoor geothermal pools; every village has one and entry is around 1,200 ISK. It is the most Icelandic thing you can do, and half our travellers arrive without a swimsuit.
2. A sleep mask if you come between May and August. The sun does not set, and Icelandic hotel curtains do not always win that fight.
3. A type F plug adapter (the European two round pins, 230 V). If you are coming from Latin America or the UK, check before you fly.
4. A power bank. Cold kills phone batteries at a rate that surprises everyone.
5. Sunscreen and sunglasses. It sounds absurd in a country of ice, but the low winter sun sits right in your eyes for hours and snow reflects.

What you do NOT need

• An Arctic expedition parka. Overkill, it eats half the suitcase, and you will roast inside the van.
• Giant Antarctic snow boots. A waterproof hiking boot is perfect.
• Bottled water. Icelandic tap water is among the best in the world and it is free. Bring a reusable bottle and fill it in any bathroom. Buying bottled water in Iceland is, literally, throwing money away.
• Too many "going out" clothes. Reykjavík is informal. Nobody wears heels to dinner.
• A hairdryer. Every guesthouse has one.

The short list, to copy

• Waterproof hooded jacket (layer 3)
• Waterproof over-trousers
• Light down jacket or thick fleece
• 2 merino base-layer tops
• 1 pair thermal leggings
• 3–4 pairs wool socks
• Waterproof mid-cut boots
• Microspikes (Nov–Mar)
• Hat, neck gaiter, two pairs of gloves
• Swimsuit and quick-dry towel
• Power bank + type F adapter
• Sunglasses
• Reusable bottle
• Small daypack, ideally waterproof

One note about the wind

The thing nobody tells you: in Iceland the wind can rip the door off a rental car, and no standard insurance covers that damage. If you are driving, always open the door with both hands, with your back to the wind. If you are with us, that is our problem, not yours.

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